There I was at the bi-annual Fisheries Supply swap meet, facing a used Groco Paragon Senior Pump for a mere $150.00. Now this is a pump that usually costs almost $1000 -- I couldn't resist. So after the $350 factory rebuild that was necessary I now have a terrific washdown pump at only about twice the cost of a new one (albeit not a new Groco, a company that makes really robust, old-fashioned and ridiculously expensive equipment). The following is from a posting to the KP44 group in answer to a member's questions on washdown pumps.
Q. Do we think it is a good thing?
A. You bet. Being able to hose off your anchor chain is a wonderful convenience. Secondarily you can wash your deck of mud and garbage.
Q. What would be the best location to install a washdown pump, and the outlet faucet?
Anywhere that is convenient. You can run hose to one or more deck outlets, and that is easy to do. I would MINIMIZE the hose run from the through hull to the pump. On Beatrix we have used the "spare" through-hull that is located below the galley floorboard (see photo below). It's a good location for the pump, too, as it is not used for anything else and is easily accessible for inspection and strainer cleaning, and close to the electrical supply. Two pieces of teak for pump mounts were glued to the hull with epoxy and epoxy cloth tabs provide additional attachment to hold them firmly to the hull.
The best setup for a washdown system is identical to a fresh water pressurized system, i.e. it has a high/low pressure switchl, so when the pump is energized it pumps until the water line is at pressure and then automatically shuts off. When the pressure drops, the pump goes back on. If it's a heavy draw pump a solenoid may also be required in the circuit. A pump can draw a lot of power. The Paragon Sr. draws 50 amps! The kind of pump you have: vane, impeller, displacement, or centrifugal, has a bearing on where you place the pump. Ours is a "twin chamber self-priming rotary pump". It can be run dry periodically and could have been located above the waterline if desired. Many pumps are not self-priming and have to be below the waterline as they can't be run dry for long, if at all.
Here is how the entire seawater washdown pump system is organized:
Notes:
Q. My initial thoughts were to install the pump in the chain locker or under the forward cabin bunk, put the faucet forward of either the port or starboard bow cleat outboard of the anchor rollers, and run the intake from the throu-hull feeds the forward head fixture (either by installing a T or getting a manifold through-hull).
As I wrote above, my advice is to locate the pump close to the through-hull you choose for an intake. Running output hose in the bilge is safe and easy so consider minimizing electrical runs and intake hose length. With the flush-mounted Newfound Metals valve you can install the fitting where convenient as you don't have a toe-stubber faucet to trip over.
Another good idea is to also plumb for freshwater deck washdown. With large tanks and a watermaker it becomes feasible to rinse off chain, sails, and gear with fresh water, thus massively extending their life. I'm planning a freshwater deck valve that goes direct to the pressurized freshwater system (with a shutoff at the tee that leads off the main freshwater system). It will have less pressure and flow (which is good -- don't want to empty the tanks too fast) than the seawater washdown. I originally thought about having a 3-way valve to the seawater washdown pump intake but decided I didn't want to mix the systems.
Last modified: March 23 2014 03:38